BEARDED DRAGON CARE SHEET
We've put together a basic care sheet but as always please don't hesitate to contact us with any questions!
Congratulations on the purchase of your new pet bearded dragon! Bearded dragons (Pogona Vitticeps) make excellent pets, and we want to make sure you have all the information you need to provide your new friend with the best possible care so they can be healthy and as happy as possible. We’ve put together this care sheet to provide a basic guide and to answer the most common questions, but of course if you are ever unsure feel free to contact us and we are happy to help! You will likely have done some basic research prior to purchase, but we understand the many unexpected questions and conflicting information that can be overwhelming for new owners!
Housing
Adult bearded dragons will require an enclosure that is a minimum 4x2x2. Juvenile bearded dragons can be housed in smaller enclosures, but be aware that they do grow quickly and the enclosure will need to be upgraded fairly fast as well. Sometimes there is concern a large enclosure is “too big” which can make it hard for young dragons to catch feeders etc. A more economical fix to this, if desired, is simply to use a piece corrugated plastic or something similar, to divide the enclosure for the first few months, although you’ll be amazed how fast they grow and this is no longer needed.
Heat/Lighting
Your dragon’s enclosure will require two lights. The first of these is referred too as a heat light. Besides providing your dragon with visual light this light serves an important purpose, providing your dragon with a heat source which mimics the natural basking behavior they utilize in the wild. Bearded dragons are cold blooded and thermo-regulate their temperature by using external sources of heat. In captivity you must provide this heat source.
Basking lights are typically a halogen bulb that creates a hot basking area which your dragon will use to warm itself. The wattage you require will depend on your set up and size of the enclosure. The wattage should be enough so as to create a basking area of approx. 95 for younger babies or 105 degrees for adults at the highest basking spot directly under the light. Keep in mind that the surface temps of different materials may vary so you will need to check this when changing decor.
You should use a good quality probe thermometer or temp gun to test this temperature. (Unfortunately, the simple cheap dial ones that sometimes come with enclosure and stick to the glass are wildly inaccurate). These bulbs are available marketed as reptile basking bulbs in most pet shops, and alternatively some use generic halogen bulbs for the same purpose.
Your basking light should be placed toward either end of your tank so to create both a hot and cool side.
*It is important to ensure the cool end of your enclosure does not exceed 80 degrees, this may mean using a larger enclosure or increasing ventilation.
The second light you will require is a UVB light. This bulb does not provide heat but will provide your dragon with essential exposure to the UVB spectrum to allow for proper metabolism of D3. It is one of arguably the single most important aspects of care in captivity. Inadequate supplementation and/or uvb exposure will drastically affect the growth, activity and health of your dragon. You must use a reptile specific UVB bulb that is meant for desert species reptiles (they will generally be labelled 10.0 or higher as in the Arcadia series) and should choose a bulb and fixture type that gives as much coverage as possible - typically tube fixtures. The manufacturing flaw related to coil UVB lamps was corrected however, we do caution that they come in both a low and high wattage so if you go this route pls ensure you get the higher wattage and keep in mind even if they are still putting out light they need to be replaced every 6 mths when UVB output wanes. Tube fixtures generally need to be replaced every 12 months, again even if they are still putting out visual light. The bulb will indicate correct distance to mount the light to ensure optimal uvb coverage, keeping in mind that screens, and other materials will drastically reduce the amount of uvb output.
*Tip – when warmer weather allows, consider allowing your pet to enjoy some natural sunlight! This is great for their metabolism and health and an optimal way to ensure proper calcium absorption. However, be careful to avoid extreme temperatures, allow a shaded or cooler area for your dragon to cool off in, and ensure you do so under direct supervision and in such a way as to not risk you dragon running off!
Regarding heat rocks and heat pads – Please do not ever use an electric heat rock or similar style décor with your dragon. These do not provide the overhead heat dragons need and run a very real risk of burning your reptile. This goes for plug in heat pads as well. Any heat tape or pad should ALWAYS be used with a thermostat to ensure the safety of your reptile.
Substrate
For juvenile dragons we always recommend you use a non-particulate substrate such as newspaper, tile, reptile carpet etc. This is to avoid the accidental ingestion of particulate like sand. While the risk is low if husbandry and temperatures are ideal, it is still a risk and an easy one to avoid, this also makes thorough cleaning much easier.
*Special note – contrary to claims calcium sand does not increase the calcium in your dragons diet and has a tendency to clump in a reptiles digestive track, we do not recommend the use of calcium sand under any circumstances.
Decor
Your terrariums decor is much up to personal taste, however, here are a few suggestions and tips. To allow optimal thermoregulation, create different levels under your basking side, the highest basking spot should reach the highest temp of 110 degrees. Natural stone, or securely stacked stone tiles, branches and basking logs all make great spots.
While your dragon is juvenile, think simple. While using fake foliage to create a densely planted looking tank may be aesthetically pleasing to you, it can make it difficult for your dragon to locate feeders, recognize water bowls or locate real greens, and make it hard to absorb optimal uvb… not to mention make cleaning a chore. Try to mimic the typically sparser terrain of their natural environment, some basking stone and a branch, a few simple plants or even a hammock will be much more appreciated by your new friend. Check for any small holes or crevices where feeders can hide and consider sealing these.
If using a glass tank, consider using or creating a background and covering the sides. Dragon’s reflections can stress them, and if you find your dragon constantly glass surfing you’ll likely find they will be much more comfortable with the background and sides of the tank covered.
Dragons, notably juveniles are great climbers and they can jump. Keep this in mind when placing décor in open top terrariums or consider the use of a screen terrarium lid to ensure your pet doesn’t escape. Locally collected river rock and branches are generally safe but avoid pine and aromatic woods as these can give off harmful vapors and of course ensure any décor is properly washed beforehand.
Food/Water
Dragons diets somewhat change as they mature. Young growing dragons require much more protein than a fully grown mature dragon and generally speaking feeders will make up about 75% of a young dragons diet. As they mature they will naturally begin to eat much more greens and require less feeders.
Crickets will usually illicit the best feeding response from juvenile dragons and should be the main staple feeder for a young growing dragon. They should be appropriately sized to the dragon. Appetites vary by dragon and it is normal for a dragon that is shedding or about to shed to show a decreased appetite. Offer 5-10 feeders at a time to start and more if the dragon readily eats them. It is okay to leave a few feeders in the tank during the day, but ensure there are greens and make sure it is a small number. Hungry feeders have been known to bite reptiles if many are left especially if there is no other food/moisture source.
As your dragon grows and depending on availability you can also offer appropriately sized superworms and these can be used as a rotational staple in a mature dragon’s diet. Phoenix worms/BSFL are also a great calcium source and good feeder but note that dragons can become spoiled on them if used alone and later refuse other feeders. Waxworms, silkworms, and hornworms, butter worms etc are also good treats but again dragons spoil easily so keep this in mind and try to use a variety.
Contrary to some older beliefs and particularly with young dragons, bearded dragons in captivity do require water. Unfortunately, dragons are not the keenest at recognizing standing water for what it is. Clean fresh water should be made available to your dragon regardless in an easy to see shallow bowl. We have found by floating a few little pieces of greens on top of the water the movement and reflection helps young dragons “recognize” water. You can also allow your dragon a shallow soak in lukewarm water in which case the movement will again typically trigger them to drink. Alternatively, you can mimic natural rain fall by gently dripping some water on your dragon from a spray bottle. Do not mist the dragon and/or enclosure. Ensure whether you offer by spray bottle or soak that you do it early enough for your dragon to dry, warm up and any moisture in the tank to dry before lights out to avoid R.I.’s etc.
Your dragon will be started on greens before leaving us. We feed all of our dragon’s greens from hatching. The greens need to be finely chopped to an appropriate size and should be fresh and rinsed. Place them on a shallow dish in the enclosure in the am and replace with fresh greens the next am, or top up sooner if need be. Good staple greens include escarole, endive, collard greens, dandelion greens, and arugula. These can be mixed with occasional greens such as chards, alfalfa, chicory and fresh grated cactus pads. The bulk of your dragon’s salad should be fresh leafy greens and leave fruits more as a treat.
Supplementation
To ensure optimal health reptiles in captivity generally require supplementation. A quality complex calcium with D3 powder is recommended and should be used to dust your feeders once daily 5x a week. Please ensure your chosen supplement does not exceed approx 20,000IU of D3 as it CAN be overdosed. A quality reptile multivitamin should also be used at least 2x weekly (we suggest on the two days you don’t offer calcium) to ensure your dragon is getting all its nutritional needs met. Bee Pollen is optional but it is quickly being considered a reptile superfood as well natural carotenoid and dragons generally love the taste of it.
Handling
For the first week or so, allow your new dragon some time to acclimate to their new surroundings and settle in. The change in environments can be stressful and during this time they should settle and begin to exhibit more normal behavior (eating, basking etc). Once your dragon is settled it is absolutely okay to handle it on a regular basis, in fact, continued handling is the only way to ensure your dragon grows up with a great disposition. To avoid scaring your new dragon, try to pick them up with a scooping motion from below vs an overhead reach which can trigger their prey instinct and throw them into fight or flight. Use calm, gentle and confident handling, and try to do so in a quiet environment, being aware a scared dragon may jump or run. Young dragons can be naturally skittish, but with regular handling as they mature they’ll become much more calm and tolerant of handling outside their terrarium.